Monthly Archives: December 2014

Wool’s worth

Rahul Mishra at Evoluzione in Chennai. Photo: M. Moorthy / The Hindu
Rahul Mishra at Evoluzione in Chennai. Photo: M. Moorthy / The Hindu

Designer Rahul Mishra, the first non-European to win the International Woolmark Prize, talks on how his rural roots have inspired his work.

From a thatched-roof, mat-lined school in Malhausi (a village in Uttar Pradesh) that charged Rs. 7 a month as fees to the Istituto Marangoni, a fashion and design institute in Milan that charged around Rs. two lakhs, Rahul Mishra has charted quite a path.

“I didn’t have to pay the two lakhs because I got a scholarship,” laughs the designer who is now based out of Noida. The first non-European to win The International Woolmark Prize earlier this year, the designer was at Evoluzione to showcase The Lotus Effect, his award-winning collection created out of Merino wool.

For this line, Mishra’s turned wool into a summer fabric. “It’s 90 per cent wool and 10 per cent silk. I got extremely fine Merino wool fibre spun. The embroidery is done using wool yarn. I wanted to change the notion that wool is a winter fabric,” he says holding up a pristine white outfit. It’s hard to believe that the sheer, diaphanous fabric is wool. “Even Woolmark Australia could not believe it. My garments passed through all the tests and it was proved this is wool,” he grins, delighted.

Spurred by the honour, the line has travelled across the globe and has been a hit. With its exhaustive intricate embroidery and detailing these delicate garments are like works of art. No wonder then that The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, the keeper of all things fine and valuable has acquired The Lotus Effect in its international category section and intends to archive it.

In white, black, yellow and grey, each of these garments tell a subtle story. The most popular in his collection is a white dress with the tree of life in yellow in front and city life in grey behind. “It got sold off a Munich-based website mytheresa.com in two days,” says Mishra, who made his international presence first through this website. After that it was Harvey Nichols in London. As soon as one enters this high-end store, a large wall with lotus motifs and Rahul Mishra’s name in big bold letters catches the eye. “Finding a space next to Chloe, Balenciaga, Dior and McQueen was dream. This is the first time an Indian designer has been showcased there,” he says.

Colette, Paris too has Mishra, or rather Mischra (that’s how they spell it) in their store. The designer whips out his iPad and eagerly shows pictures of the boutiques where his work is stocked. It’s like sitting with a child who excitedly runs you through his new set of toys. “This, and look at this…and this is what the Australian press wrote,” he smiles, rapidly swiping through the tablet.

Mishra’s philosophy integrates his designs with the craftsmanship of local artisans from villages across India. All the embroidery work for this collection was done by artisans from West Bengal and the rest of the work was done in Chanderi. “We chose the hottest month to develop this fabric. It was in June and the temperature was 50 degrees in Chanderi,” he says. “If we can create this kind of award-winning product with the help of rural artisans then imagine the strength India’s villages have. India shouldn’t be an outsourcing market alone. We need to make “Made in India” happen or rather “Made in the villages of India” happen. “Fashion is not just a glossy, vanity entity. It can help create a better India,” he adds.

Talking about his association with the villages he works with, Mishra is glad to see how their lives have changed for the better. He speaks of a bunch of skilled artisans who were making handicrafts for international luxury brands but living in inhuman conditions in Mumbai. They are now back in their villages, with their families and work from there. “Now they live comfortably and eat a wholesome meal.”

He shows me a picture as proof and a video of an artisan speaking about how happy he is to be working with Rahul bhai. “I learnt from Mahatma Gandhi that you have to become one of them. So when I visit villages I stay in their houses, eat with them, sleep on a charpoy or under the trees. This is where my village upbringing helps me.”

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Features> MetroPlus> Fashion / Priyadarshini Paitandy / December 11th, 2014

‘Sport of Kings’ enthralled the city folks

Lucknow:

It was once again a moment of immense pride for Lucknowites to be part of the third edition and most awaited tournament, ‘Awadh Polo Week’ where the spectators were presented with an excellent opportunity to witness deft horse riding skills displaying an unmatchable coordination between the horse and the rider. Organized under the aegis of Central Command at Surya Khel Parisar(old Butchery ground) the second league match commenced on Tuesday with fervor and elan. Amid the five pan India teams which have arrived for the historic event, the second league match was played between Lancer’s (Indian Military Academy Team from Dehradun) and Cavalier’s (61 Cavalry Team from Jaipur).The game which was divided into four chukkars(rounds) of 7 and a half minutes each, team Cavaliers’ won the match with the final score 4-3 after an exciting and challenging round.

To bring this event back to Lucknow after nearly a century, Central Command for the first time took the initiative in 2012 when it got prepared a new Polo ground for the event with multiple objectives of bringing the game to the city, motivating the youth to take on the adventure activities.

“It gives me immense happiness that people here are taking interest in promoting sports and efforts are being made to make Lucknow a centre for Polo and equestrian excellence,” said Lt General AK Mishra, Commandant Artillery Centre, present at the occasion also a Polo enthusiast.

Fast paced with national level players the audience was enthralled with the spectacular match.

“The speed, the hurl and the instantly changing scene as either of the team players seize the fleeting chance and sight of gallant, well bred horses is indeed a wonderful experience,” said Mohammad Haider, sitting in the audience.

“The initiative to revive and popularize the sport in the city which has the unique distinction of being the first city to host the Polo Association Cup (Indian Open) in 1912 is commendable,” he added.

Prior to this there was also a Cycle Polo exhibition match played between Team A (representatives of the five Pan India teams which had come for Horse Polo) and Team B( representatives of Central Command stationed in Lucknow). After a thrilling match Horse Polo team which won the match with the final score 6-0.

It was an equally entertaining event even for those in the audience not too well versed with the game. “Though cycle polo is not that common but the players made the game so interesting that till the last minute everyone’s eyes remained glued to the ground.” said, Pratichi R Bartarya, a first timer at a cycle polo match.

The Army musical band led by Subedar Major Chandan Singh Rana (Jaat regiment) added flavor in the event.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Lucknow / by Uzma Talha, TNN / December 10th, 2014

Retro beauties roll down city streets

Lucknow:

Sunday was a fun day for city’s motor sports aficionados and patrons of vintage cars and motorbikes. It was time to enjoy the ride in the retro beauties rolling down the streets of Lucknow. From Austin Chummy 1926 and Ford A 1928 vintage cars to Nortan, Birmingham Small Arms Company (BSA) and Royal Enfield motorcycles the annual vintage car and motorcycle rally once again brought back memories of a bygone era.

Organised by Hindustan Petroleum Corporation Limited (HPCL) and Vintage Car and Motorcycle Club of Lucknow as a part of Lucknow Mahotsava, the vintage rally started from Koneshwar, Chowk after being flagged off by district magistrate Raj Shekhar.

Over 45 vintage beauties on wheels comprising 30 cars and 15 motorbikes were on the streets of Lucknow, the owners flaunting their priceless possessions.

Meandering through the roads of Old City passing through Rumi Darwaza, Chhota-Bada Imambaras, Hazratganj and also through the posh modern localities like Vibhuti Khand, the rally terminated at Indira Gandhi Prathisthan, Gotminagar.

Owner of the oldest vintage car Austin Chummy 1926, M A Khan, who has been participating in the rally for the past 21 years from the time Lucknow Mahotsava first organised such an event, said, “Old beauties always retain their charisma and preserving them helps conserve a cultural heritage.”

Along with the Lucknowites the rally comprised participants from other cities of Uttar Pradesh too.

Dr Tarun Sehgal, a resident of Sitapur and a proud owner of a treasured classic car, MGTC 1947 who has been participating in the event since past 11 years, said, “Every time I take out my MGTC 1947 model I enjoy the experience of driving and basking in the vintage glow.”

Secretary of Vintage Car and Motorcycle Club of Lucknow and also one of the participants, Sandeep Das believes though maintaining vintage or even for that matter classic vehicles is an expensive affair, the passion of the proud owners overrides the money spent and energy consumed.

In Car Parlance

Vintage cars- Cars manufactured before and till December 31 st 1939(Second world war) are called vintage cars

Classic cars- Cars manufactured between 1940-1962 are termed as classic cars.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Lucknow / by Uzma Talha, TNN / December 01st, 2014

This prodigy awaits recognition

A talent youngster of the city awaits recognition at a time when IIIT-A is leaving no stones unturned to make the 7th science conclave successful.

In the by-lanes of Kydganj locality of the city resides 14-year-old Dinesh Dwivedi, who has never been to schools but still imparts coaching to students, inspiring to crack IIT, CPMT, AIEEE and other examinations. This wonder kid, who has been awarded Young Achievers Award, easily solves questions of mathematics, physics and chemistry, impart tuitions to aspiring IITians along with those preparing for CPMT, AIEEE or for that matter even those pursuing BSc and MSc.

Hailing from Khiwali Kalan village of Koraon Tehsil, Dinesh imparts free coaching in a small rented room in Kydganj. Although his small classroom has just few takhat (wooden cot) and chairs, but in the last two years Dinesh’s guidance has produced 25 IIT’ians, 15 were selected for CPMT and 32 students have cleared AIEEE. In all, he teaches 280 students in batches daily.

This ‘guruji’ of budding engineers and doctors is in search of a teacher who could let him appear in intermediate examination so that he can become district magistrate, his childhood ambition.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Allahabad / by Rajiv Mani, TNN / December 05th, 2014

Supply Corps’ soldier saw first action as 21-year-old in WWI, recalls his daughter

Lucknow :

The Army Supply Corps, which completed 254 years of existence today, is undoubtedly one of the oldest units to serve the Indian Army. From World War-1 to Kargil conflict, the ASC’s has made its presence both during war and also during peace. And as the nation gears up to salute the officers and soldiers of the ASC, an octogenarian daughter of a World War veteran (who was a part of the Royal Indian Army Supply Core) recalls the life, action and time of her father during the turbulent period in the annals of world history.

Speaking to TOI, octogenarian Probhati Bose said that even before completing 21 years of age his father Bibhuti Bhushan Dey Majumdar had become a part of the British Army, and the first major action, which the young lad from Allahabad saw was the first World War (WW-1), which broke out on July 28, 1914 following the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne in Sarajevo by a Yugoslav nationalist.

“My father (Bibhuti Bhushan Dey Majumdar) was born in the summer of 1893, and in January 1914 he joined the British Army’s Royal Indian Army Supply Corps. Within few months of joining, he got to see the first major action in World War-1, when he along with his regiment went to Mesopotamia to extend support to the infantry soldiers, who were facing the enemy bullets,” said Probhati Bose.

Recalling some of the stories narrated by her father (which she could recall), Bose said, “As per my father, mostly Punjabi Muslims and Sikhs fought for the Allies (Britain, France, Russia, US and others) against Germany, Austria-Hungary and the Ottoman empire. The Lahore and Meerut infantry divisions had to stop the Germans on the western front (in Europe). The soldiers also saw significant action in Mesopotamia, East Africa and South-East Asia.”

As per the New Delhi-based Centre for Armed Forces Historical Research, India contributed immensely to the war effort in terms of both men and material. Her soldiers served in numerous battlefields – France and Belgium, Aden, Arabia, East Africa, Gallipoli, Egypt, Mesopotamia, Palestine, Persia, Russia, and even in China. By the end of the war 1,100,000 Indians had served overseas at the cost of 75,000 dead. They earned more than 9,200 decorations for gallantry including 11 Victoria Cross (VCs).

However, the daughter of the World War veteran lamented that military history, which is taught in most of the schools or colleges, is virtually devoid of India’s contribution to World Wars. She said, “It is really unfortunate that most of the news channels or newspapers are obsessed about the Indo-Pak wars. It is sad that the media gives comparatively less coverage to the illustrious history of India’s contribution in the World Wars. And it is only on few occasions, that the World War veterans are remembered.”

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Lucknow / by Arunav Sinha, TNN / December 08th, 2014

Chikan and Zardoji artisans put up stall in Lucknow mahotsava

Lucknow :

The artisans of Chikan and Zardoji have beenprovided space by NABARD and HCBL Co-operative Bank Limited in the Lucknow Mahotsava to display and market their products. Inside the NABARD pavilion, two stalls have been given to the Chikan and Zardoji artisans whom HCBL Bank had provided financial assistance.

The CEO of HCBL Bank Limited, Pawan Kapoor, said that bank has provided these artisans loans at low interest rates and specialincentives. He said that under the financial inclusion program theHCBL Bank has not only disbursed loans but provided space at bank branches to market their products.

The Chikan and Zardoji stalls at NABARD camp in Mahotsava have been getting great respone from public. Kapoor said that artisans have beenselling their produce at the Mahotsava stall with bare minimum profitand one can get authentic Chikankaari and Zardoji works here.

Chikankari and Zardoji are the traditional crafts of Lucknow city, which are widely appreciated all over the world. The HCBL Bank said it is committed to promote the age old art of Chikankari, for which the State of Uttar Pradesh is famous.

Earlier in July, KK Gupta, chief general manager of National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD), Lucknow had distributed cheques of financial assistance to artisans and craftsmen at the Alambagh branch of the bank. At that time has assured artisans that in the coming Lucknow Festival, five stalls would be provided by NABARD to display and sell their products.

NABARD provides training to the artisans about latest trend and designs in Chikankari. This is the third phase of financial assistance extended to the artisans by the HCBL Bank. Earlier in August and December 2013 too, the Bank had organized similar events in which a large number of artisans had benefited.

HCBL Bank said it also aims at providing point of sale options to the artisans to sell their products at branch offices. “This will not only help the artisans to show case their products and art but also earn a reasonable income through such sales, said the bank.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Lucknow / by Priyanka Singh, TNN / December 05th, 2014

Web portal bridge for Indo-US study group

Lucknow:

Consolidating US-India ties, Lucknow University in a first-of-its-kind initiative will offer add-on courses in ‘American Studies in India’ from January. Students, both under and post graduate, opting for these courses can also connect with their American counterpart via a web portal which was launched by the department of English and Modern European Languages, Lucknow University in collaboration with Public Affairs Section, American Embassy on Tuesday.

The web portal would strengthen and promote American studies in Indian universities and colleges. Project coordinator Nishi Pandey said the forum would be interface with American students offering more content and database.

Launching the portal, director American Center and assistant cultural affairs officer, American Embassy Emily White stressed students and teachers use the American Centre Facebook page as medium for exchanging cultural and educational interests.

White said India studies is already a part of curriculum in many American universities and relevance of American studies in Indian colleges is important. Students opting for the certificate and diploma courses may study America’s history, geography, political developments, economy, foreign policy and international relations. “There will also be courses in American literature, feminism and gender issues and culture,” said Pandey. The courses were designed by experts from India and US over a period of five years.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Lucknow / TNN / December 02nd, 2014

Allahabad artists go online to sell their painting

Allahabad :

Confident brush strokes, bright colors, a creative theme and days of hard work, that’s what it takes to make a good painting. But it becomes quite disappointing to see if that piece of brilliant artwork doesn’t get the deserving appreciation. That’s precisely what most young painters have been facing for years in the city now. Exhibitions are held, paintings are put on display, but these brilliant piece of work fail to find buyers. But thanks to the advent of technology and boom in the online market, their plights seemed to have got ended. Unable to sell paintings in the local markets, these artists are resorting to social networking and online platforms to sell their stuff.

Happy with the change

Talk to the painters in the city and ask them how their lives have got changed since they started using online platforms and they answer enthusiastically. Dheeraj Yadav, a graduate from the department of Visual Arts who started marketing his paintings on facebook some times ago, adds, “The problem with this city is, people hardly buy paintings. You invite them over to your exhibition, they will come over, appreciate your work and go back. It’s not that the quality of paintings put on display is bad or the price is too high, the buying culture is just not there. Even if you price a painting as low as 1000 rupees, people rarely buy,” shares the budding painter who manages to sell a few paintings monthly using facebook these days, adding, “But now I have changed my approach. I have joined various forums on the facebook and I market my paintings there. I get to sell 3-4 paintings monthly.”

Drill these youngsters further to know more about this issue and the picture gets clearer. Dharmendra Kumar, another budding painter of the city who also resorted to online platforms recently, shares his story. “To a great extent the tag matters. More than how good a painting is, people focus on who has made it. They feel that unless a painting has been made by renowned painter, it is not worth buying, so even if they like our paintings, they would not buy it for the tag factor,” claims the youngster who recently started approaching online galleries and is getting good response from them now. “Because these online galleries are managed by professionals who have good network, they are able to arrange buyers. How they manage to sell them is something I don’t know, but in the past 3 months, I have been able to sell 7-8 paintings. Although the galleries take a 30-40% cut, given the fact they manage buyers for us, I feel it’s ok. Nothing comes for free,” adds the painter without divulging the details of the money he managed to earn from these sales.

At what price a painting gets sold is a very important factor and it seems these budding painters are quite satisfied with the returns they are getting by selling these paintings online. Adding to Dharmendra’s point, another painter Amreesh Kumar avers, “Best part of selling paintings online despite the presence of middle men is that nobody is there to haggle. You can price it as per your whims and fancies and it will be sold on your listed price. Locally that is the worst problem we face,” claims Amreesh, who managed to sell 3 of his paintings in the last couple of weeks,” adding, “Online platforms actually give us options of buyers. If somebody is unwilling to pay what we want, we can always look for other. Aaj nahi to kal bik hi jaegi and wo bhi achche rate par.”

This trend has been able to motivate these youngsters so much that a few of them are even thinking of starting their own pages and blogs. Painter Ankit Pandey, who graduated from University of Allahabad a few years ago, is one of them. “So far I was a member of a number of forums in facebook, but given the kind of response my paintings are getting, I have decided to make own page and blog. I will put some of my best paintings on display. Some of my painter friends have advised me that this will help in increasing my brand value,” claims the painter who managed to sell 4 of his paintings in the past one and half months using these platforms.

Prof Ajay Jaitley, Head of the Visual Arts department at the University of Allahabad and person in-charge of Nirala Art Gallery, one of the two most important art galleries of the city, avers, “For the past over 30 years, I have seen almost all the painters of the city. There is no dearth of talent, but painting buying culture is just not there in this city. Moreover, absence of professional galleries, which can market and give platforms to budding artists, is another reason. Visitors take these budding artists’ work lightly, so we need better marketing to improve the local market,” he says before highlighting the impact of online galleries, e-commerce sites and social networking platforms further. “On an average an artist gets to sell his painting for minimum 5000 rupees online, at least that’s something I have been told by the people selling them, so youngsters are definitely getting good returns. Although, this trend is still at a nascent stage, it has given the more exposure and bigger market. Websites like fizdi.com, Indiaart.com and indiaarthub.com, besides others, are some of the websites which youngsters are sending their works to.”

But not everyone seems to be satisfied with the response of these online platforms. There are people who have been using them for quite some time, but have not been able to get good response despite all the efforts. Shobit Yadav, post graduate student at the Visual Arts department who has neither had a very good experience uploading his paintings’ pictures on facebook, nor sending these pictures to various websites, is one of them. “I have been uploading my paintings pictures on Instagram and facebook for the past 4 months, but so far have not been able to attract even a single buyer. People send queries but so far no query has got translated into business,” he says, adding, “I even sent a few pictures to Indiaart.com but so far have not got any response. So I personally do not feel that online/social networking platforms can help too much.”

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Allahabad / by Shashank Tripathi, TNN / December 01st, 2014

Church goers fondly remember ‘Shah Jahan of Christians’

Aligarh :

The name ‘Daniel Wilson’ might not ring a bell in the streets, but for a handful of Christians in the town, he remains a figure of reverence. He founded the Christ Church in 1835, which continues to be thronged by the Protestants here. The building is a symbol of pride for them, they say. And a symbol of pride for the city as well. For this is the church that has withstood the tribulations of time and attacks from fringe right-wing groups. An exemplar of India’s chequered history of diversity.

The mention of Bishop Daniel Wilson brings a smile on the cluster of people present at the Church, who call him the “Shah Jahan of Christians”. Advocate Osmond Charles said, “Bishop Wilson is Shah Jahan of Christians because he built 20 churches in four years’ time. He built churches in cities lying between Aligarh and Calcutta.”

The church came into existence as part of the British’s plan to promulgate Christianity through the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel (SPG), which was a missionary organization of the Church of England in 1701. The establishment was involved in establishing some of the oldest missionaries and churches in Kanpur in 1833. In the 19th century, SPG, which is now called the Churches of North India, sent clergymen equipped with religious literature to Britain’s colonies to expand the Abrahamic religion.

With November 30 being the foundation day for the Churches of North India and the day on which a refurbished Christ Church opened its gates to its devotees again, it gave the community a chance to hark about the past. They darkly recall the past when the church came under attack from right-wing forces. Sherley J Joy, a resident of the town, said: “I was very young when this incident occurred in 1998. I remember some fascist outfits came and uprooted the cross that was used as an indicator to the Church. We felt threatened to practice our faith. As a young girl, I accompanied the other Christian families to the collector’s office to fight for our fundamental right to practice our faith.”

The secretary of the church A Verghese also spoke of the turbulent days. He recounted his experience of carrying out a procession on the streets, and how they fought for their rights during those bleak days. But he also spoke about the significance of the Christ Church, both in terms of history and art. “This building has a lot of significance for us. Besides being one of the oldest churches in North India, the church has an artistic appeal as well. Several museologists and theologians come to the church every year to take in the building’s impressive architecture.”

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Agra / by Eram Agha, TNN / November 30th, 2014